A wooden house plaque

[Daisho]

I decided to make a plaque for the front door out of wood. I got hold of a slice of log and got to work on it using hand tools only. Now it's proudly displayed by the front door and I'm quite pleased with the results as it was fun to make.

http://www.facebook.c...6&type=1&l=361a9f4958

But now after six months up there is a huge split in the thing going about halfway across. Now i'm no carpenter and know nothing at all about wood, I just picked up the tools and went for it. Can anybody tell me what steps I should have taken to protect this from happening?

[RATTER15]

Your biggest problem is you have the wrong cut of wood, it ha been cut horizontally, this is the very weakest cut, for that kind of situation it would have needed to be cut diagonally. What I would now suggest to save all that hard work (great sign by the way) is to buy a piece of marine ply and cut to to the exact shape of your sign and glue it on to it using a good quality external waterproof glue.

I think it will have a very short lifespan due to the fact that will continue to split in all directions im afraid. The ply just may keep it going for a while longer.

[scotman]

^

Agree with Ratter. This will continue to split with age. A support plate of some form seems the best solution.

[Daisho]

Thanks for that advice, I should have researched it a bit more before I started.
Many thanks.

[The Builder]

That's a shame, Daisho. Nice work. You must have enjoyed doing that.

Ratman's dead right. It's rather like cutting a blank for turning a bowl (on a lathe, that is.) Your blank will crack on the rings, or even across them. A bowl would be turned from a piece cut from the tree longways ............. not across.

The plywood is what I'd be inclined to do. Maybe pour polyester resin in the crack to "solid" it up as well.
In the meantime, cut longitudinally (or diagonnally), and have another go :o)

[ChuckFickens]

Like your portable doom device BTW, what's that running on?

[Daisho]

Thanks Builder, I may just try another one.
Chuck, It's not mine, I just found the pictures floating on the net but I suspect it's probably a fake.

[ChuckFickens]

LOL, it's a bloody camera :)

http://www.dashfest.com/?p=113

Looks like a fairly easy build as it goes.

[Clanad]

I'd disagree on the selection and use of the end or cross grain cut for your sign. It provides the most striking texture and unusual "target" motif. I've used the same cut here in the U.S. for years for multiple purposes, especially TB's shunned turned bowls.
Having said that, the technique of air drying the piece before work begins is time consuming and somewhat tedious. My own experience, especially with cedar (which is notorius for cracking) involves a good moisture meter for testing as well as a location that I can store the cut so I'm not looking at it every day, anxious to get started. I start it an unheated shed and move it to a heated workshop.
A good air dried blank, such as yours (I too admire the quality of workmanship) may take as long as six months.
There is, however, an excellent product here in the U.S. (and, I suspect the U.K.) called Pentacryl. It's applied as per the directions and has worked well for me, including pieces that had begun a crack. I especailly like the ability to use any finish after application.
One thing I would recommend... the large "knot" (where a branch had grown out of the mother log) should be stabilized. I really like working with copper and bronze and have several pieces of "strap" from both materials. I would carefully, on the reverse side, of course, chisel out a shallow channel across the joint... extending at least 3 inches into the branch as well as the main log (even longer if you can) probably about half an inch wide to accept a strap and using copper or brass screws (the heads of brass and copper screws often twist off in hardwoods... simply drive the same size of steel screw and then back it out and use the copper or brass, countersunk, of course) as well as a good multi-use glue, imbed the strap. (Actually, due to the size of the knotted area I'd use maybe 2 or 3 such straps.) This will certainly stabilize that area which will be a problem, left untouched, sometime in the future.
I'd use copper or brass for the effect of the patina over the decades, even though it's on the reverse. Imbedded, it won't interfere with hanging the piece. (For effect, I'd personally consider doing the above on the face of your sign).
Lastly, the blank is cracking due to loss of moisture... to attach a full cut piece of plywood or any other such assist, will, in my opinion and experience, only cause the blank to "bow", since it can't continue to shrink normally. But, that's my opinion only... woodworkers are well known for having differences of opinion...

[Daisho]

Thats a very thourough piece of information and I am grateful that you spent the time to answer. I think I will let the current one disintegrate of it's own will for now and see how long that takes before I start another one, but I have gathered all your advice and wisdom for future reference. Many thanks all.