Crosswords0 min ago
KARL &/or hairygrape re:self cutting outside tap
4 Answers
Do you have any suggestions as to how to rectify the problem? is it a case of replacing the valve provided with the kit with a 15mm copper tee & integral cut-off valve to increase the hole size?
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For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.As long as you rely upon the flow of water through that pin for water pressure, increasing the flow rate is impossible. You're along the right lines.
The only method I know of to have the water flowing at mains pressure is to buy a proper brass outside tap of the type shown here:
http://www.toolspot.co.uk/product/brass-outsid e-garden-tap
This type of tap has a 15mm compression fitting at the supply end. You'll need to turn the rising main water supply off and then drain the cold water out of the pipe by turning on the nearest house internal cold water tap until the flow stops.
The next step is to remove about 30cm length of the copper pipe into which you screwed the supply valve for the outside tap. Replace the length with new sections of copper pipe using compression couplers at either end but also fit a compression T piece somewhere along on the new pipe. You can then take a feed from the T piece to the outside tap either via more copper pipe into the tap compression fitting or fit a suitable flexible hose section, which is available from most plumbers merchants or DIY superstores.
Others will tell you to use Speedfit or plastic push fit connections for this job. It's all down to personal preference. I prefer solderable fittings myself but I've also used compression fittings.
Finally, don't forget to protect the pipework from frost if it's against an outside wall.
The only method I know of to have the water flowing at mains pressure is to buy a proper brass outside tap of the type shown here:
http://www.toolspot.co.uk/product/brass-outsid e-garden-tap
This type of tap has a 15mm compression fitting at the supply end. You'll need to turn the rising main water supply off and then drain the cold water out of the pipe by turning on the nearest house internal cold water tap until the flow stops.
The next step is to remove about 30cm length of the copper pipe into which you screwed the supply valve for the outside tap. Replace the length with new sections of copper pipe using compression couplers at either end but also fit a compression T piece somewhere along on the new pipe. You can then take a feed from the T piece to the outside tap either via more copper pipe into the tap compression fitting or fit a suitable flexible hose section, which is available from most plumbers merchants or DIY superstores.
Others will tell you to use Speedfit or plastic push fit connections for this job. It's all down to personal preference. I prefer solderable fittings myself but I've also used compression fittings.
Finally, don't forget to protect the pipework from frost if it's against an outside wall.
if I can just add, try to fit an isolation valve inside [between the feed from the t junction and before the pipe goes though the wall].
Learnt that from bitter experience! then you'll be able to shut the outside tap off if you get any problems.
This is supposed to be good for insulating the external tap during winter. tap cover. you can get a tie on jacket from the home delivered mags, Kleeneze, Betterware etc. one last tip for your house rising main, don't have it fully on, just turn it back a � turn from the max, then if it gets stuck - as they do - you can turn the tap handle in either direction. hope that helps.
Learnt that from bitter experience! then you'll be able to shut the outside tap off if you get any problems.
This is supposed to be good for insulating the external tap during winter. tap cover. you can get a tie on jacket from the home delivered mags, Kleeneze, Betterware etc. one last tip for your house rising main, don't have it fully on, just turn it back a � turn from the max, then if it gets stuck - as they do - you can turn the tap handle in either direction. hope that helps.
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