ChatterBank4 mins ago
flush ball ****
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how do you lower the water level on a flush toilet, pls?
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you could try dropping the ball
gently bend the arm down towards the water (unless it's plastic - in which case there is generally a small bolt that screws in to do the same job) - and the valve will operate quicker
most likely the rubber washer is worn
so a tweak will put off the inevitable - for a while ... but it's not a cure
in the long run redman's right ... you need a new **** and ball
gently bend the arm down towards the water (unless it's plastic - in which case there is generally a small bolt that screws in to do the same job) - and the valve will operate quicker
most likely the rubber washer is worn
so a tweak will put off the inevitable - for a while ... but it's not a cure
in the long run redman's right ... you need a new **** and ball
hi mr tamborine man
the water level is correct, because it was okay before the leaking into the overflow started therefore you need to renew the two washers in the control valve or replace the whole unit.some people think thats better as its less hassle.
me i just replace the two washers but its your call
good luck with it
the water level is correct, because it was okay before the leaking into the overflow started therefore you need to renew the two washers in the control valve or replace the whole unit.some people think thats better as its less hassle.
me i just replace the two washers but its your call
good luck with it
It's very easy to replace the washers and a set of mixed sized washers are available at B&Q for about 3 quid. Turn the water off at the stop **** then flush the loo once to empty the cistern.
Here's how to do the old brass type.
http://diydata.com/plumbing/ball_****_repair/b all_valve_repair.php
The more modern plastic type is very similar. It is self evident when you get it apart. Remember to clean off and scale or scummy bits before replacement. around the area wher the washer seats.
Shoulkd save you a fortune on a plumbers costs and will take about 20 mins to do.
Here's how to do the old brass type.
http://diydata.com/plumbing/ball_****_repair/b all_valve_repair.php
The more modern plastic type is very similar. It is self evident when you get it apart. Remember to clean off and scale or scummy bits before replacement. around the area wher the washer seats.
Shoulkd save you a fortune on a plumbers costs and will take about 20 mins to do.
As Red says...replace it...
and as AC says...a temporary measure would be to bend the arm if it is brass...it may work.
I always replace them with a new valve.
I get about 2 of these to go to every week.....I would never dream of changing the washers when I can buy a whole valve for �3-4
Also if you change a washer, it does'nt always seal against the existing high/low pressure inlet.
Once you have turned the water off, most of these valves take around 5-10 minutes to change.
They are not difficult to do..once you have changed it...turn the water on slightly...then there will be no great panic if you have a leak...and at worst it will be leaking into the cistern.
Good luck..!
and as AC says...a temporary measure would be to bend the arm if it is brass...it may work.
I always replace them with a new valve.
I get about 2 of these to go to every week.....I would never dream of changing the washers when I can buy a whole valve for �3-4
Also if you change a washer, it does'nt always seal against the existing high/low pressure inlet.
Once you have turned the water off, most of these valves take around 5-10 minutes to change.
They are not difficult to do..once you have changed it...turn the water on slightly...then there will be no great panic if you have a leak...and at worst it will be leaking into the cistern.
Good luck..!