Christmas Presents For Random People
Shopping & Style0 min ago
Underfloor Heating
30 Answers
The Mr wants it, I'm not sure. Can anyone recommend it?
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diddlydo if your flat was cold then you weren't using it properly.
None of us who bought a flat in this new block had ever had UFGCH before and didn't know how to use it properly. So we consulted a heating engineer and he told us not to turn the thermostats down below say 18 degrees in the winter. If, when you go to bed, you turn it right down to Zero then you ain't going to get heat in a hurry the next day because the pipes are set into 7.5cm of screed. So the heat has to come up through the screed and then the floor boards or whatever and then sometimes carpeting as well. What I do is set it at say 21 or 22 then set it to turn down to 18 when I go to bed. Oh and I never have any heat on in the bedroom. In the morning the rest of the flat will usually still be on 20, 21 or even 22 degrees. Marvellous. Even in the summer I only turn the thermostats down to 15, never lower, there is no need. And don't worry about your animals, there are hot spots and cool spots. Cat on hot, dog on cool:-) And it's cheap to run but you do need good insulation.
None of us who bought a flat in this new block had ever had UFGCH before and didn't know how to use it properly. So we consulted a heating engineer and he told us not to turn the thermostats down below say 18 degrees in the winter. If, when you go to bed, you turn it right down to Zero then you ain't going to get heat in a hurry the next day because the pipes are set into 7.5cm of screed. So the heat has to come up through the screed and then the floor boards or whatever and then sometimes carpeting as well. What I do is set it at say 21 or 22 then set it to turn down to 18 when I go to bed. Oh and I never have any heat on in the bedroom. In the morning the rest of the flat will usually still be on 20, 21 or even 22 degrees. Marvellous. Even in the summer I only turn the thermostats down to 15, never lower, there is no need. And don't worry about your animals, there are hot spots and cool spots. Cat on hot, dog on cool:-) And it's cheap to run but you do need good insulation.
Rocky, I don't think so, it is very cheap to run. I have never heard the heating kick in during the night and I'm not a good sleeper. That is because the temperature never drops below 18 in the rest of the flat, even in the coldest weather. As I have said, when I get up in the morning and go into the sitting room the temperature has hardly dropped from when I went to bed. In the summer it never comes on and if the weather meant the temperature dropped below 15 I would leave it if I was cold and if I wasn't then I would turn it down further. But you could turn it right down to 0 if you wanted to but no point. Don't forget this is a new build with very good insulation. Hope I'm making sense.
A lot of good stuff from everybody there. Ladybirder's posts underline an important point. UFH is very different in the way it works. The temperature setting is much lower than conventional rads.
It is important to fire it up well before it's needed. Warm-up time with rads is quick. UFH takes a lot longer.
For running costs - any extra time that it's on is offset by the lower temp. needed, and the fact that it's all thermostatically controlled. With any system, it's all down to "power in - heat out". I doubt if the running costs differ greatly from a rad system. The great advantage is "comfort level". Hard to define, but mainly, it's the fact that heat is spread evenly around the zone, rather than localised at rads. Since heat rises, it eliminates that cold draught around your feet.
New extension? Even easier. Fitting it in the rest of the house would mean raising floor levels significantly.
Have the oversite taken out to a much lower level to allow for a thickness of insulation under the pipework. The oversite is the bit where the floor sits (hardcore/concrete/insulation etc).
I would allow for 100mm Celotex/Kingspan insulation under the pipework... with a conventional sand & cement screed on top ........ or a poured, sloppy one.
Your builders will know all this anyway, but I always think it's nice to know what's going on.
It is important to fire it up well before it's needed. Warm-up time with rads is quick. UFH takes a lot longer.
For running costs - any extra time that it's on is offset by the lower temp. needed, and the fact that it's all thermostatically controlled. With any system, it's all down to "power in - heat out". I doubt if the running costs differ greatly from a rad system. The great advantage is "comfort level". Hard to define, but mainly, it's the fact that heat is spread evenly around the zone, rather than localised at rads. Since heat rises, it eliminates that cold draught around your feet.
New extension? Even easier. Fitting it in the rest of the house would mean raising floor levels significantly.
Have the oversite taken out to a much lower level to allow for a thickness of insulation under the pipework. The oversite is the bit where the floor sits (hardcore/concrete/insulation etc).
I would allow for 100mm Celotex/Kingspan insulation under the pipework... with a conventional sand & cement screed on top ........ or a poured, sloppy one.
Your builders will know all this anyway, but I always think it's nice to know what's going on.
Thanks Builder, you and Ladybird have pretty much confirmed what others have told us. We will be including it into the older part of the house which the extension is joining, but a new floor was being put down anyway so shouldn't be too much upheaval to put the heating in.
It'll be nice to have blank walls, that's for sure.
Thanks again for all your replies X
It'll be nice to have blank walls, that's for sure.
Thanks again for all your replies X
