I use Fernox 1B. It stops corrosion and so the need to bleed the system. My system is 30+ years old, I top up the Fernox every 7 or 8 years and I've never had to bleed the system or had any problems with it. I very strongly recommend it.
I forgot to mention due to a leak under my concrete base most of the pipework from boiler to the rads was changed to some sort of flexible piping. Still assume it would still worth doing.l
Just pour it into the header tank, usually in the loft; you might need to take a bit of water out first. As the water in the system heats and cools it expands into the header tank and contracts out again so it gets into the system fairly quickly.
Drain some water out via bleed valve, remove large nut behind b/valve,
use funnel to get Fernox into system, replace nut and valve, repressurise system, job done!
Actually after re-reading your last Baldric if I'm reading it right you say some water off thro the bleed valve and remove large nut behind it and using a funnel add the Fernox, As the bleed valve is horizontal I assume you can get a right-angled funnel or am I just a silly old fool.
BJ......as you live in a bungalow, the chances are, that the boiler will be the highest point in the system.Bleeding some water from a bleed valve wont do it.You may have to drain part of the system and inject the Fernox through a bleed valve nut at the top of a rad... when sufficient water has been drained off.....then re-fill.
One last question on this subject(I hope) is it worth draining and then flushing out the system first before applying the Fernox. Once again thanks for all the answers. What would us old fellows do without this site.
The system may benefit from flushing...however check out the water coming out when you drain down....if its clean then dont bother.How old is the system BJ?
If the inhibitor strength has been kept constant then flushing may not be required as a combi system is generally sealed unlike a conventional open vented system.